 Poza
La Becerra, Cuatro Cienegas, Mexico
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Underwater, in between swaying stalks of aquatic lilies,
a little duck darts swiftly. Suddenly, it swims to the surface
and off to the other side of the crystalline pool in a flash.
On the surface, the immense and rugged Sierra Madre Oriental
mountain range surrounds the high desert valley of Cuatro
Ciénegas. The white, sandy valley is decorated with
salt grasses, cactus plants, yucca and 3-meter-high sotól
flowers. Scattered amidst the gorgeous desert scenery is the
incongruous fact of unexpected blue oases in the middle of
one of North America's largest deserts. Snorkeling in the
middle of the Chihuahuan desert seems an unlikely thing to
do, but when the conditions are right, the water is crystal
clear and just about the temperature of bathwater, shot through
with an occasional cold current to add a little variety.
In 1994, Cuatro Ciénegas was declared by the Mexican
government to be a protected area because its amazing ecosystem
is home to some species of fish, turtles and plants that are
found nowhere else in the world. Access to the more than 200
pozas is limited, with swimming allowed only in two –
La Becerra
and Las Playitas. La Becerra is located right off the highway
and is popular with swimmers who stir up the bottom silt on
the weekend, reducing visibility. At its northern end, however,
the poza has a narrow neck-about 5 meters long and 1.5 meters
wide-so thickly covered with foliage that it almost seems
like a tunnel. This passageway (navigable by a snorkeler)
leads to a less frequently used expanse of water on the other
side of the barbell-shaped pond.
The water is up to four meters deep, and visibility can be
as good as 20 meters when the sun is high. In
the deepest parts, currents of water (called borbollones)
enter La Becerra from the larger water system underground,
creating fountains of tiny white snail shells mixed with black
pebbles. In places, the water rushing in is strong enough
to throw the shells and pebbles more than a meter off the
bottom. In other borbollones, a snorkeler can watch sand shifting
so that it looks like a little pot of water on the boil.
Las Playitas is a little further off the beaten path and
visitors must drive 14 kilometers over a bumpy road cut from
the dusty gypsum typical of this valley. It's worth it for
those seeking solitude because it is rarely visited. The only
drawback for snorkelers is that the temperature in this pond
is much cooler than at La Becerra.
Several years ago, National Geographic did a feature on the
area, dubbing it "Mexico's Desert Aquarium". Indeed,
varieties of cichlids comprise many of the 16 species of freshwater
fish found in the area (eight of which are unique to the valley).
It really can feel as if one is snorkeling in a giant home
aquarium.
Recently, a group of Italian, Mexican and American scientists
have been exploring the system of caverns and waterways, and
scientific
research in the area is ongoing as geologists seek to
discover the source of the water feeding the pozas in the
valley. Local environmental groups are very proud of the beauty
and special qualities of these oases and they take their work
seriously. However, this area remains nearly undiscovered
by tourists with the exception of people traveling by road
between the northern states of Mexico.
The town of Cuatro Ciénegas itself makes a good base
for travelers. There are a few clean hotels in town and the
people are open and friendly. Every Saturday, they have a
baile at the disco on the Plaza and festive music pours from
many of the local taquerias and shops all day, every day.
One pleasant surprise is the existence of a local wine industry.
A company called Ferriño makes a decent version of
ruby port (called oporto), and one can buy a bottle for only
about US$5.
Otherwise, facilities for travelers are pretty basic. Snorkelers
will certainly need to pack their own gear, as will campers.
For a fee of US$4, caretakers allow tents right on the beach
next to La Becerra and Las Playitas. There are bathrooms,
showers, barbeque pits, and shaded picnic tables at La Becerra.
The 180,000 hectares of protected desert region at Cuatro
Cienegas has much to offer. There is a stunning area of white
sand dunes called Los Arenales, which can be visited with
a local guide from the tourism authority. These same guides
can lead hikes into the mountains and there are even some
caves to explore. Rock climbing is also possible for those
carrying equipment.
The drive from Del Rio or Eagle Pass, Texas is only about
four hours over decent roads-better than some two-lane highways
in the United States. For those traveling within Mexico, Cuatro
Ciénegas is less than three hours from both Torreón
and Monterrey.
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